Gear Sector™

Logged at 07:01pm on October 30th, 2005 by Jason

Installing a single point receiver end plate on your carbine is a simple matter and can be accomplished by most individuals with limited or no gunsmithing skills. This how-to will guide you through the process step by step with illustrations. Before you begin, we suggest that you read through the article in its entirety at least once to familiarize yourself with the process and any tools that may be required.

Step 1.) Things you will need.

In this first step we will collect all items necessary in order to perform the task at hand. Be sure you have the following items available before you begin disassembling your weapon.

1. A carbine
2. A Burnsed Loop™
3. A Spanner wrench

We offer all items listed in our online store. With the exception of a carbine of course. You will need to provide this yourself. If you don’t have the necessary items, feel free to purchase them from our online store or your favorite retailer.

Step 2.) Removing the stock

To remove the stock we need to first fully extend it to the last position available on the buffer tube. Next, grab the position selector lever and pull it in the downward position. Begin sliding the stock in the rearward direction while continuing to hold the lever in the downward position as indicated by the red arrows in the diagram to your left.

Once it clears the last detent hole in the buffer tube if should slide right off. Now that the stock has been removed we can proceed to step 3.

Step 3.) Loosening the castle nut

Now that the stock is out of our way, we can use our spanner wrench to begin loosening the castle nut.

Warning: I should point out that there is a detent pin and spring hiding behind the receiver end plate in the rear of the receiver. As soon as the plate backs off, they will go flying. Review the diagram in step 4 to pinpoint the location of the rear detent pin and spring. You may want to have a freezer bag handy for catching the parts if you don’t feel comfortable catching them with your bare hands.

That said, make sure you only break the nut loose at this point. You will need to turn it in the counterclockwise direction to loosen it as indicated by the red arrow in the diagram to your left. You may encounter initial resistance, especially if the castle nut has been staked. Don’t let this scare you. Apply enough pressure to break the nut loose and proceed to step 4.

Step 4.) Remove the detent pin & spring

With the nut free and ready to spin, hold inward pressure on the end plate while continuing to back the castle nut off.

Next, slowly begin to back the end plate away from the receiver while covering the bottom right area with your hand (or freezer bag) to catch the detent pin and spring. View the diagram to your left in order to determine where the pin and spring are located. Their positions are indicated by the left most red arrow.

Step 5.) Swap Plates & Replace buffer tube

Assuming your detent pin and spring didn’t go flying into neverland, we are ready to unthread the buffer tube from the receiver.

We rotate the tube in the same counterclockwise direction until it is free of receiver. Slide the original end plate off of the buffer tube and replace with the Burnsed Loop™. Take care to properly orient the Burnsed Loop™ with the nub facing the receiver and the lettering facing outward. This is not a cosmetic issue, the nub insures that the buffer tube and ultimately your stock doesn’t rotate in the receiver.

Replace the buffer tube by threading it back into the receiver in a clockwise direction until just before it bottoms out on the buffer detent pin. You will want to make sure you push down on the buffer detent pin and thread the buffer tube in until it just covers the outer edge of the detent. It should hold the detent in the down position but not overlap the nipple on the detent. The buffer detent pin is marked with a red arrow in the diagram to your left.

Replace your detent pin and spring in the rear of the receiver and slide the Burnsed Loop™ forward to hold them in place. You can now start tightening the castle nut to sandwich the plate back into place between the receiver and stock.

Finally, crank down on the castle nut until it’s good and tight. If you experience problems with your castle nut shooting loose, you may want to use a drop of blue loctite.

Photography provided by: Stickman

Comment 1

Logged on September 4th, 2007

I followed these instructions and they worked like a charm. I have no gunsmithing experience, but with the Spanner Wrench I was able to swap the Burnsed Loop out in less than 5 minutes. Great products!

--- Adam ( Waldorf, MD )

Comment 2

Logged on February 7th, 2008

Thank you for the follow up. My order arrived in record time. I am no gunsmith but your “how to” section made installation of the mount a snap. I am looking forward to putting my new sling to work at our next carbine match. Thank you again, the excellent quality of your products are only second to your amazing customer support. I look forward to my next order. Best regards.

--- Julio ( Miami, FL )

Comment 3

Logged on August 5th, 2008

I’ve tried other spanner wrenches and 2 of them broke. The spanner wrench from Jason and Gear Sector is quality and makes taking the castle nut off a breeze.

Total time to install the Burnsed Loop, 10 minutes at most, just watch out for flying springs. ;)

Great service, fast delivery and quality products, highly recommended.

--- David ( Rancho Santa Margarita, CA )

Comment 4

Logged on January 9th, 2010

The shipment time was amazingly fast and the install time took maybe 5 mins and it looks like a stock part. Thanks.

--- Steven ( Montgomery, AL )

Comment 5

Logged on June 16th, 2010

Spanner wrench is great! However I would recommend that you place your rifle into a vice first so that you can apply the right torque to the wrench as you might strip out the eyelets on a stingy castle nut, especially one that has been staked and had loc-tite applied. Just a pointer from personal experience, not the wrenches fault.

--- Jc ( Payette, ID )

Comment 6

Logged on May 24th, 2011

The Gear Sector Burnsed loop and castle nut wrench are both great, high quality products. Following these instructions, this is a 10 minute job, minus any time spent on your hands and knees looking for one of the springs that went flying

One note, though, when using the Burnsed loop and a Magpul MIAD (and quite possibly the MOE) grip with either of the two beavertail backstraps ("B2″ and “B3″). The upper rear corner of the beavertail will prevent the Burnsed loop from being tightened flush with the receiver. You will need to use a piece of sand paper to remove some of the upper corner of the backstrap to get a solid fit. This is a 10 minute job and does not effect the functionality of either the sling mount or the MIAD grip.

--- Craig ( Yorktown Heights, NY )